Just a few shots

BigRed03 wrote:$15 a piece + tax and shipping from BAT Inc. Ordered 2, so $40 roughly to my door aint terrible. 3 weeks though :-/ they MIGHT get here in time for Daytona.

and Josh #2, how much are a set of locking lug nuts from ford (only need 4 nuts...hah!) with the tool? otherwise I'm going to crapzone and picking up a 4 pack there, where every other schmuck goes. They only have like 3 different locks to choose from, soooo chances are someone else has the same thing.

um i might be able to get some real cheap if you know what i mean... I'll let you know my cost on new ones, and or if i can find some for ya cheap

since when can a US dealership get parts for a European car? (the ST200 which Rob's wheels are off of)

he's asking me about the locking lug nuts.

yeah, BAT inc is getting me the center caps there josh

wow that's what I get for skimming....I knew BAT was getting you caps but then I read the first half of what Josh quoted then what he replied with. So I read rob asking about ST200 caps and Josh saying he can get them cheap....my bad lol

lol that cool.

I was getting hopeful for a second there!

i posted some MP3 wheels for sale on ebay uk.... dont see those for sale often even on ebay uk

Rob i pm'd you about the lug nuts

sooooo i need more low. josh and i talked about my suspension this past weekend because I had already come to the conclusion i need to replace my struts and he told me my front struts are sagging......

Now taking donations for moar low.

So. Rear pads are about gone on one side (passengar rear). Right now, there are about 36k miles on the EBC green stuff pads (front and rear) and OEM replacement rotors.

1. Think the rotors are still good? Centric rotors aren't terribly expensive...

2. What pisses me off is i still have a decent amount of pad left on the fronts....So. EBC greenstuffs or Hawk HPS. Theyre within $10 of eachother...

Hey could you do me a favor and measure the diameter of your st200 center caps? Im wondering if they would fit my Monzas.

2.625 inches (2 and 5/8ths) or 6.668 cm (2.65in*2.54cm)

thats the outwardly facing diameter. Do you want the diameter of the inside pop spring thing (dont know the technical term)

How much pad is left on your left rear, Rob? Josh's right rear was shot and turned out his caliper had locked up.

Yeah, definitely check that caliper

x'3 on the caliper. just did one on a mint silver ZX3 svt today at work he had 3mm left on the left pad and 6 or 7 left on the right. the guy had only 32000 on his 03

Did you offer to buy it from him?

yes i did.... i said i'd give him 5 grand he laughed then i said its just a focus lol, he knew i was kidding.... its a german customer that comes here for the winter then goes home in germany during the other months

then its gotta be stuck it has prolly <3mm on the outside pad...knida scared about the inside pad where the piston is...

fuck. josh #2, what can i get a new svt rear caliper for?

And ya'll still didnt answer my questions....

I will let you know monday when i get to work.

BigRed03 wrote:So. Rear pads are about gone on one side (passengar rear). Right now, there are about 36k miles on the EBC green stuff pads (front and rear) and OEM replacement rotors.

1. Think the rotors are still good? Centric rotors aren't terribly expensive...

2. What pisses me off is i still have a decent amount of pad left on the fronts....So. EBC greenstuffs or Hawk HPS. Theyre within $10 of eachother...

answer to 1. if there is no vibration present in the floor or seat due the rear rotors being warped then no. If there are no scoring marks that are too deep to be machined out then no, if there are no hot spots in rotor then no the rotor is fine.... if there is scoring or hot spot or vibration the have them turned (machined) then check to make sure they are not below minimum thickness specification.

answer to 2. what do you have now? if you have EBC then switch to Hawk and see if those are better in your opinion. i like both have used both didn't see a difference. as for a high performance car i had Alcon Brakes on my cobra...... 13 in rotor in the rear and 14.5 in up front. those were the best brakes ever! but alas they don't make anything for the focus so i just wasted your time reading this little bit extra....... why are you still reading.... go buy pads rather then reading this.

i do get some vibration when brakes are applied, but it goes away once the pads have reached temp...

no, there isnt any scoring (as far as the outside of the rotor goes. need to get under the car and check the back sides.

there is still quite a bit of pad upfront which annoys me

You won't be able to see the insides of the rear rotors until you get them off the car because of that dust shield

my inner pad was GONE and chewing rotor, outside pad still had ~70% life left. As did the other side rear brakes. But I replaced them all, and kept the others as "in case" supplies.

NAPA/Advance Auto rotors work for me to be honest. I have absolutely no complaints with EBC pads, and I will continue to buy them whenever I need pads

the vibration could be from the moisture in the air over night it builds up on the rotor where the pad is basically like surface rust.... and until it is wore off you will have some vibration.... how bad is the vibration? As far as the front not wearing as fast as the rear i can give a definite answer on that cause there could be a few reasons. the pad quality, rotor quality, bad calipers, characteristics of the car etc. as for the scoring you cant see the back side of the rotor due to the dust shield.

sweeeeeeet. new rear rotors, pads all around and a new caliper.

204.85 for ebs green stuff pads, new rear rotors + shipping and tax. +caliper and shipping. Just turned into a $350+ night....awesome

don't buy it until you get it apart and verify

well der. but thats not until next weekend (saturday) when i pick up ur wheels from my house.

well the rotors may be saved if they are machinable.

BigRed03 wrote:2.625 inches (2 and 5/8ths) or 6.668 cm (2.65in*2.54cm)

thats the outwardly facing diameter. Do you want the diameter of the inside pop spring thing (dont know the technical term)

D'oh! I was thinking of the ST170 wheels I guess, they have a larger center cap. The center cap on my Monzas is about 5-7/8"

SVT3658 wrote:You won't be able to see the insides of the rear rotors until you get them off the car because of that dust shield

my inner pad was GONE and chewing rotor, outside pad still had ~70% life left. As did the other side rear brakes. But I replaced them all, and kept the others as "in case" supplies.

NAPA/Advance Auto rotors work for me to be honest. I have absolutely no complaints with EBC pads, and I will continue to buy them whenever I need pads

Did you ever get that caliper replaced?

oh hell yes I did! I did it like 2 weeks after I got back

Ok, you never told me if you did........lol.

I didn't? Oops, sorry. I thought I told you one time when I called you. But yeah I swapped it out, put the new pads in it, bled the brakes, and painted all the calipers flat black. No more bright red calipers!.

hoookay...

got the passenger rear brake apart only to find that the edge closest to the hub was down to METAL BACKING! Yikes...thankfully, though, there isnt any scaring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Went and got new pads for the rear, $36 for wagner golds (didnt go with the silvers because the fronts are ebc greens and i didnt want my tail end stopping slower than my front....) While using the "cube" on the calipers....discovered that the drivers rear was nice and easy! The boot was nice and pretty when fully pushed back in. The passenger rear however, wasnt so pretty and i think it needs replacement anyways....

^Yup, exactly what happened when we did Joshy's rear brakes.

poopy....

josh said he got a reman'd unit from discount/autozone/ or w/e and paid $50. Think thats my route.

And bummer because I just paid for those cheapy rear pads. O well, ill get the caliper and replace it and then wait for the fronts to wear further before ordering the ebc greens

things have been ordered!

other stuff will arrive today/tomorrow for install saturday.

once my car is clean (been 2 months since last warsh) and proper, pics will be updated!

hurry up and get you downs

Wow, mr. super busy rob. Must be studying hard.

yaIknowright?

nvm, fixed it.

So. Tomorrow is focus lovin day! Oil and filter change, replace stuck rear caliper (FINALLY! its been several months), install toe arms, and WASH THE CAR zomg its dirty.

A week from today a rebuilt holley carb should have arrived and will be installed onto the 83 mustang! This current carb is leaking and hasnt been rebuilt since 01/02 iirc. Then Saturday is drive down to Keys and fix/wash/prep boat for June 17-20 FISHING and DIVING adventure.

I love focus loving.

focus loving COMPLETE! Although, I didn't warsh the car. Started to threaten rain and I decided against it and instead mowed the lawn....its that time of year in FL. Afternoon rain showers/thunderstorms EVERYDAY.

Dont kno if I did something worng, but the toe arms rattle when the wheel/rotor is wiggled from the 9 and 3 positions....and the bolts are 12" breaker bar tight...and yes, the sleeves are in.

I adjusted the new arms by inserting the bolts through the ends of both the old and new arms and lining up the holes. Do I need to get back under than car and adjust the arms to put some pressure on the bolt itself to prevent the rattle? That has me alittle concerned.....

Are these rear toe arms? I'm not following.

yes.

what do you need clarified?

LOL I read it wrong, you said wiggled wheel from 9&3 so I thought steering wheel, then thought toe arms are on the rear why would the steering affect them.

But now that I can read, it sounds like the bolts are to small for the holes in the arms.

yeah, but the bolt holes are the same size as the stockers....

If I put "tension" on the bolts by pulling on the toe arm the rattling doesnt happen.

Whats more dangerous, loose and rattling or pushing against the bolts? All i wanted was 0 toe out back.....sodudhfnpaijsd fnviuawbpfiaji sbpv;uiebrifjbgo aijsbfiUSDhbvljaehrbvujdfaosjfblzdhfxvbaiuaspgf aieiugh

I think that having them rattle is worse. If they're moving your tire isn't going to run true.

Black friday order: ebc green stuffs and centric rotors all around.

The front pads have been on since I got the car (45k miles ago + what PO put on em) and I replaced the rear pads with cheapes when I replaced the stuck rear caliper a few months back. They aren't totally shot YET, but saving $40 helps!

Also, I'll be changing the oil, replacing fuel filter, checking for vac leak, cleaning maf, cleaning k&n air filter, and finally fixing the toe arms after josh clued me into what my issue is, and something I wish DOM would have told me up front and later in my unanswered email:

1/2" bolts and nuts to snuggly fit the inserts in the heim joints, not the stock ones.